As soon as we buy a new camera, most of us are so excited that we want to start using it right away and enhance our creative process... but this process can also be frustrating. Knowing and learning the whole menu, features and functions is challenging, especially if we are switching from another system or a completely different brand. This guide is for those like me who switched systems to one of the best machines, the Sony A7R III, and therefore find themselves in the same situation.
The Sony A7R III has a new menu system, with a different button layout and new features, which make it one of the best machines I've ever had the opportunity to experience and use on a daily basis. The decision to create this small guide is so that you can enjoy your Sony A7R III to the fullest, or another similar model that has the same menu, such as the Sony A7 III and Sony A6600. I've been using the Sony A7R III for over a year and I've been exploring the machine in different real situations, inevitably ending up configuring and customizing the machine in my own way. I don't intend to do any extensive review, but rather a mini-guide to help reduce the learning curve when it comes to configuring the camera to focus more on the photographs and less on the settings.
The images are in English because it is difficult to photograph the LCD with quality to be visible. If anyone has a solution I'm willing to try it and update this post. Those who have the machine in English can follow the images. Hope you enjoy this guide.
INITIAL SETTING
After taking the body of the camera out of the box and charging the battery, many of you must be dying to start taking pictures. At least I was! But before taking those first pictures, there are several basic settings you should adjust. Although these settings are not "game-changing" when it comes to your experience with this machine, A7R III, they are still important.
Configure region and hours
When you turn on the camera for the first time you will be greeted by an option to choose the language. You should choose the one that best suits your knowledge, I like to have all the machines in English. After choosing the language, it's time to select your region, date and time. Though most photographers do this initial setup and never think about it again. The truth is that if you use several different machines like I do, you can imagine the headache this subject can become. Especially for when we travel to other regions. You must ensure that all your machines have the same date and time, and you must make the necessary changes whenever you travel. In this way you will be able to ensure that when you are in your editing/organization program, such as Adobe Lightroom or another, your photographs taken by different machines are aligned perfectly.
After the initial configuration these resources can be found in Menu 'Configuration5' (5/7), respectively 'Conf Date/Time' and 'Area Definition'.
Choose RAW or JPEG
In addition to choosing the language and setting the date and time, the first configuration that most photographers make is to check if they are shooting in the image format they want. By default, most cameras come prepared to shoot in JPEG. Personally (and professionally), I prefer to shoot in RAW so I can access all of the photo information captured by the amazing sensor inside the A7R III.
However, I must point out that we can still choose the type of RAW file we want with the A7R III: Compressed or Uncompressed. By default the selected file format is Compressed, which in essence is a smaller RAW file (40mb vs 80mb) but is considered a 'lossy' file because it uses an algorithm that helps to reduce the RAW file size. This algorithm removes some of the information deemed unnecessary or redundant while still providing a photograph that can still be edited to our personal taste. The Uncompressed format does not use any algorithm, so it is a pure RAW file with no loss of data. The difference between the two is negligible in 95% of cases, however, if you are taking pictures in situations with high contrasts, such as astrophotography or night photography, then I recommend using the Uncompressed RAW format.
Both settings can be found in the first menu, 'Image Quality/Size'. 1'.
Turn off Long Exposure Noise Reduction, High ISO Noise Reduction, and Auto DRO/HDR
While Sony does a good job of providing efficient features and settings on their cameras, when it comes to noise reduction and HDR I prefer to be in control of everything in post-production. For this reason I always turn off Long Exposure Noise Reduction, High ISO Noise Reduction (with JPEG only) and Auto HDR (which will artificially increase the dynamic range). Each of these settings is active by default on the A7R III, however if you are not comfortable with post-production techniques to reduce noise or with HDR you can leave some of them on to help you out.
These settings can be found in the second and twelfth menus of the first tab, ie 'Quality/Image Size2' (2/14) and 'Colours/WB/Proces. images' (12/14).
Choose Color Space
By default, the A7R III comes with the color space set to sRGB, which is the most used color space and what is accepted by the vast majority of websites and almost all mobile phones and tablets. However, this color space does not have a large color profile, i.e. it does not capture the different variations within the same color as other Color Spaces. For example, if your photos are going to be printed, you should use the AdobeRGB Color Space instead, as they contain a wider spectrum of colors than can be captured. Although it's not a big problem if you're shooting in RAW, it might be one less detail that you have to change when you're editing the photos. What I recommend is choosing the Color Space that best suits the final destination you are going to give your photographs, just don't forget to choose the right one when printing or sharing an image.
This setting can be found in the 'Image Quality/Size2' menu (2/14).
Set Auto Bracketing
If you like to photograph landscapes or are a travel photographer looking for photographs with a greater dynamic range to have more data for each photograph then you will like to use the resource of photographing using 'bracketing', that is, capturing multiple images of the same scene but with different exposures. They should only make minor adjustments to bracket and shooting mode settings. As you may know it is always recommended to use a tripod for this type of photography.
First we'll change the bracket settings in the 'Shooting Mode/Advance1' menu (3/14), and you should change the 'Temp. auto dur. Brkt' from 'Off' to '2 sec.', and then it's more a personal matter, I like to change the 'bracket order' from '0 → - → +' to '- → 0 → +'.
We must still change the settings of 'Advance mode' or shooting mode. Scroll down until you see 'BRK C - 0.3EV3' and press right or left with the Control Wheel until you see 'BRK C - 2.0EV3'. This setting will allow you to take 3 bracketed shots with 2 stops of difference between each shot, which is my favorite when bracketing. By setting the self-timer to 2 seconds and choosing this shooting mode, the A7R III will quickly take three shots without pausing in between.
These settings can be found in the 'Shoot/drive mode1' menu (3/14).
Changing Peaking Settings
If you sometimes have to shoot in manual focus then you should use one of the best features of the A7R III which is the Bump Definition (or 'Focus Peaking'). As soon as you turn on the Manual focus on the lens (MF) a color overlay will appear over your image when the subjects start to come into focus, making the whole process easier when you are trying to get sharp images.
To have the best results I recommend choosing the 'Salience Level' to 'Medium', you should keep the following settings: 'Present. Boss': On. | 'Salience Level': 'Medium' | 'Bump Color': 'Red'. These settings can be found in the 'Focus Assist' menu (13/14).
Connect the Grid Lines
While the 'Horizon Level' is an extremely useful feature when using a tripod, it can be a problem when using the camera handheld. A simple solution to help maintain correct composition is to use Grid Lines.
I like to use the Rule of Thirds, which appears with the term '3x3 Grid', which not only helps me keep the camera level but helps me get my subject in the best spot while I'm shooting.
The 'Grid Line' setting can be found in the 'Auto1 View/Review' menu (6/9').
Turn Off Sound Signals
I'm a wildlife photographer and any sound can drive animals away. And as you can imagine one of the most irritating sounds are those little beeps that digital cameras make when they focus, when they shoot or when we are using the timer. In other situations they might not be so irritating, especially when we are alone, but when we are with other photographers we can get those bad looks while shooting the sunset and your camera is the only one that is constantly making noise. Simply select the 'Off' option from the menu.
Turn off Auto Brightness
One of the settings that we should pay more attention to is the brightness of the LCD and the viewfinder. The machine comes by default with the 'Monitor Brightness' on 'When there is sun' (automatic). This means that the monitor's brightness may vary depending on lighting conditions. In mirrorless machines it is usual to use the monitor more than the viewfinder, and this monitor should show us the final result depending on the defined exposure and aperture and is one of the benefits of using it (apart from low light situations or the use of flash) . If this setting is set to automatic, the scene to be photographed may appear brighter than the final RAW file and this may lead us to make some compensation errors.
The best solution is to change the mode to 'Manual' and leave it at '+-0'. In this way the final result will be the closest to what is displayed on the monitor. This configuration can be found in the 'Configuration1' menu (1/7).
Select Auto ISO and Min VO. ISO Auto
Another resource that comes in handy on the A7R III is the use of automatic ISO. When we are shooting in Manual, Shutter Priority or Aperture Priority modes (both in photographs and in movies) we have the option of selecting automatic ISO, so that the camera chooses the best ISO for us for that scene. This feature is extremely useful when shooting in places where the light is constantly changing, such as street or wildlife photography.
Now to really take advantage of this feature you must also set the 'VO min. ISO AUTO'. To be able to change this setting you must be in Aperture Priority mode (the mode with the 'A' icon in the mode dial at the top). In this mode, you have the possibility to choose the minimum speed that you let the camera reach before turning on the Auto ISO feature. How does this work? Let's imagine you're shooting in Aperture Priority mode while walking around your hometown. In your journey, the light changes in your subjects, sun, shadow, sun. But when setting the 'VO min. ISO AUTO' to 1/125 sec. you're telling the machine that if your shutter speed never drops below 1/125 sec, then your 100 ISO won't change. But, if they suddenly choose to photograph a subject in the shade or in low light, the camera will increase the ISO to maintain that shutter speed, making sure that the shutter speed never slows down from the speed you set and you don't end up with blurry pictures in the background. process.
Both settings can be found in the 'Exposure1' menu (9/14).
NEW FEATURES ON THE A7R III
Although the Sony A7R III will be very familiar to many photographers, especially those who have evolved from the A7R II, there are several features that are new and that you should configure and learn how to use to really get the most out of this camera. Here are some.
Set Multi SD Card Workflow
One of the most requested settings was support for multiple SD cards. However, as there are several recording possibilities for one of the two cards or for both, you must define what kind of workflow you want. Many want everything captured by card 1 (the fastest with UHS II) to be automatically copied to card 2. There is also the possibility to separate the RAW/JPEG or photos/videos or just copy the photos (or videos) to the card that serves as a backup. As you can see there are several options.
Now if you're like me and you've never had a problem with an SD card, it doesn't make sense to burn a copy to the second card when you're shooting. But that doesn't mean they don't have that option. You can define which 'Prior. recording support' to slot 1, the fastest, or set the 'Recording Mode' and still activate the 'Mud. self. support' for the machine to change cards when they run out of space in the middle of a session without having to worry. This problem happens to me many times when I'm in the field, distracted taking pictures and suddenly something happens and without noticing that the card was full I end up losing the picture.
The setting 'Def. Record Support' must be changed in menu 'Configuration6' (6/7).
Enjoy a real Focus Button at the rear
One of the best configurations that we can find on the A7R III is the button dedicated to focusing on the back of the machine, this in terms of ergonomics and the layout of the buttons. The idea of the back focus button is very simple. The shutter button on the front of the camera is configured to just take the picture, while the button on the back is dedicated to focusing. By separating the two functions, it is possible to react much faster and manage to take the picture, that is, without accidentally pressing the shutter button and the camera ending up focusing on another subject in the background and ending up losing the desired picture. Focusing is thus carried out exclusively by the rear button.
The 'AF-ON' button is configured by default for the function we want, however, we have to configure the 'AF with shutter' function from 'On' to 'Off' so that the focus is no longer carried out by the shutter button (shutter). This function is found in the 'AF2' menu (6/14).
Eye Focusing Technology
Face/eyes autofocus is one of the best features found on almost every Sony mirrorless, although it is sometimes underestimated. It works simply by changing the type of focus we choose to quickly find and keep a human face or eye in focus. This focusing system will track and focus the eye continuously even if the subject moves around the scene, which increases the likelihood of getting that shot with the subject's eyes in focus.
But how can they take advantage of this technology? The best solution is to configure a button to make it easier to use. By default the center button in the middle of the control wheel on the back of the camera is set to start Eye Auto Focus, however I don't think it's the most natural place for a focus button. There are two solutions, either setting the 'AEL' button or pressing the joystick as both are relatively close to the 'AF-ON' focus button, which they possibly already use to focus naturally. If none of these work, you can still set the lock focus button that is on the sides of most Sony lenses. This button can also be customized and configured as we wish, although many do not know it.
Personally I prefer to have the eyes focus on the 'AEL' button, this setting can be changed in the 'Work' menu. custom1' (8/9), and then in the 3rd table of 'Key Person.'.
I created a post where I have all the definitions about the A7R III that you can consult to facilitate the configuration of all the buttons and functions. You can check in the post 'Sony Alpha A7RIII - Definitions and General Configurations'.
Enable Touch Operation
The touch screen is a great help when we are trying to focus, because it allows us to simply change the focus point by clicking on the screen. And it works both in photography and in video, which is great because I can quickly change the focus location without having to scroll the entire screen with the joystick. However, this function is switched off by default, so you have to go to the 'Configuration2' menu (2/7) and switch on 'Touch Operation'.
Adjust the Light Meter Point
Another feature of the A7R III is the ability to force the camera to measure light at the point of focus rather than at the center of the image using 'Point Light Meter'. If you mix this feature with the previous one of touching the screen to choose the focus point, then you'll be able to capture photos with different light spectrums, like the sun's rays breaking through the clouds or a candle in a dark room. They can even focus on another subject and then change the point of focus without losing focus to have a new reading.
To activate this feature, go to the 'Exposure2' Menu (10/14) and change the 'Light meter point' from 'Center' to 'Focus point link'.
Internal Timer/Interval Shooting Function
For those who like to take time-lapses or just like to take pictures of star trails, there is an excellent internal function. With this feature they can configure the number of pictures they want to take, the interval between captures and the delay to start the first capture. Then turn on the timer and press to fire. The machine will follow the set, if you need to stop because you made a mistake or something has changed, just press the shutter button again and the machine will turn off the interval trigger. For example, to photograph drags, I set the following settings: 'Photography start time': 5 sec. | 'Capture interval': 1 sec. | 'Number of photos': 2000. So when I'm tired I go to the camera and turn off the function, without ever running the risk of it stopping mid-drag and having gaps.
The 'Disp. int.' found in the 'Shoot Mode/Drive2' Menu.
Tricks with the Hinged LCD
One of my favorite aspects of this machine is the hinged LCD. It allows us greater flexibility when we are shooting from different angles or perspectives, for example when I am in a photographic shelter I can be peeking outside and I only have to move my eyes to see the LCD, when in the past I would have to bend down to peek through the viewfinder. However, it can be a little irritating when approaching the LCD and the machine's proximity sensor automatically switches between the LCD and the viewfinder, this can be a bit irritating especially when it happens with the ends of the belt or coats. This can be useful when we really want to use the viewfinder instead of the LCD, but when it's the other way around the Proximity Sensor always seems to be too sensitive.
Fortunately, Sony has come up with a good solution to prevent this from happening. Whenever you pull the LCD out a little bit (maybe even a little bit) it will automatically turn off the Proximity Sensor.
Adjusting the Viewfinder/LCD Display
For both the viewfinder and the LCD the ideal is to increase the 'Display Quality' to 'High'. This will increase the displayed resolution and you will see much more detail and texture, especially for those who like to do macros and want to know in detail what is in focus. You can also change the frame rates in the 'Speed. Photograph. display' to 'High'. This will help a lot when you are trying to photograph subjects that move very fast, like birds in flight.
The first setting can be found in the 'Configuration2' menu (2/7) and the second in the 'Auto Preview/Review1' menu (6/9).
Enable GPS Location
For those who walk a lot in the countryside like me, it's always good to have georeferenced photographs, however, not all machines have built-in GPS. But Sony solved the issue in a simple way, added a Bluetooth connection that allows you to use the 'Imaging Edge Mobile' mobile application (Android & IOS) to add GPS location. Once they successfully pair the camera with their mobile phone via the app, the mobile phone's GPS location is embedded in the RAW or JPEG file while shooting. While it may take a few minutes to get everything up and running, once they're paired just turn this feature on and everything runs smoothly.
Using the 'Pixel Shift'
A great feature that you can find on the Sony A7R III is 'Pixel Shift'. I won't go into great detail about this technique, but basically most sensors have slight gaps in the pixels they capture and end up forcing the sensor and internal computer to help fill in those gaps using artificial intelligence to get the colors right. and textures. With this technique, the objective is to fill these gaps with RAW pixels by taking four images in a row and combining them one after the other using the internal computer to achieve fantastic images in terms of depth, texture and color. The only problem is that a tripod is needed and the scene cannot be shaken, or you will get a blurry picture. As it is not my area, in this case interior architecture, I leave here an image provided by Sony.
Another challenge is finding this setting in the internal menus, which can lead to some delays when we want to use it in the field. For quick access, you can configure an external button to have this functionality, like the C4 button, or place it in your menus. Another place would be to put 'Pixel Shift' in the modes found in the Fn (Function) Menu, which you can access by pressing the 'Fn' button on the back of the machine. Either way, this feature might be one you want to access quickly. I'll talk later about how to customize various buttons, including the 'Fn' menu.
Classify and Protect Photos
One of the best features is the ability to classify and protect the photos that are on the card. While we're reviewing the photos we've taken, we can quickly classify the ones we like the most to facilitate post-production work or protect the photo so it can't be deleted (unless you format the card). The best solution is to configure the 'C3' button, as it is close to the 'Menu' button as you can see in the image below. I prefer to put the 'C3' button as a way of classifying the photos, because as soon as I take the photos to the PC I end up formatting the card.
Additionally, you can customize the 'C1' and 'C2' buttons to protect your photos. I will explain further below how you can customize these buttons.
CUSTOMIZE YOUR A7R III
One of the best features on Sony machines is the ability to customize almost every button and even menu on the system. From the buttons on the back of the machine, to the 'Fn' menu and even the 'My Menu' menu, there are countless options that you can choose from to customize your machine. If you do it correctly, you'll rarely need to open the menus and you'll have the opportunity to concentrate more on shooting than changing settings.
Customize the Button Layout
One of the settings I like the most is the ability to customize the entire experience when we're shooting, this because by changing the buttons I'll satisfy the needs when I'm shooting landscapes, travel, macros, wildlife, and even astrophotography. On previous machines this possibility did not exist, I had to remember in the field where everything was inside the menu. With Sony I can have my own machine, with the functions I use most and need most when I'm in the field and don't have time to look around! If you don't like the settings that come by default, you can change them to the ones that suit you best.
This customization can also be made for when we are shooting and when we are filming, and this really improves the whole shooting experience. As you know, in addition to taking pictures, I also do a lot of filming for the YouTube channel. Additionally, they can also change some buttons when they are reviewing the photos, such as the rating and protection of the photos. I made a post with all the settings 'Sony Alpha A7RIII - Settings and General Settings', however, to customize the buttons you must go to the menu 'They work. custom1' (8/9) and change the first three. But here is the configuration of my buttons.
Photography: Customized Button
Control Wheel – ISO
Custom button 1 – Focus Mode
Custom button 2 – Focus Area
Custom button 3 – Focus magnifier
Custom button 4 – Select Func. Tactile
Bot. Cent multi-select – Standard focus
Employee Center Button – Defin. of focusing
Fun. Left Button – Forward Mode
Function Right Button – ISO
Down Button – Silent Shooting.
Function AEL Button – Eye AF
AF-ON button – Turn AF on
Focus Lock Button – Eye AF
Video: Customized Button
Control Wheel – ISO
Custom button 1 – ISO
Custom button 2 – white balance
Custom button 3 – Sel. APS-C S35/En. With.
Custom button 4 – Select Func. Tactile
Bot. Cent multi-select – Standard focus
Employee Center Knob – Rec Level. audio
Fun. Left Button – Forward Mode
Function Right Button – ISO
Down Button – Silent Shooting.
Function AEL Button – Prior. face/eyes AF
AF-ON button – Turn AF on
Fix Focus button – Fix focus
Galery: Customized Button
Custom button 1 – Protect
Custom button 2 – Protect
Custom button 3 – Rating (5 stars)
Fn button – Env. for smartphone
Customize the FN Menu
The second most important customization is the 'Fn' menu. It's the place where they can make some necessary changes quickly, something that's important but they're not always using. In this menu you can define up to 12 functions or settings.
Top Functions
Steadyshot – Turns SteadyShot on and off, useful when we place the camera on a tripod.
APS-C S35 Capt.: Manual – Allows switching between Full Frame and APS-C Super 35.
Subject Detection – Allows switching between 'Human' and 'Animal' when we are photographing a person and need to switch to their pet.
Interval shooting – Turn interval shooting on and off, you have to set in the menu.
multicapt. off pxl – Turn on 'Pixel Shift', must use tripod and static subjects.
Silent Shooting – Turns silent shooting on and off, for photographing animals it is always on but if you want to use the flash I have to turn it off.
Bottom Functions
Photograph. no flicker. – To prevent photos from being streaked when shooting in indoor light.
Introduce Zebra – Turns the zebra effect on and off.
Prior. Face/Eye AF – Change the priority to focus on the face or eyes.
Grid Line – Although you always have the rule of thirds on, sometimes it can serve as a distraction.
Prior. recording support – Choose the priority card.
Touch Operation – Turn touch operation on and off.
To customize this 'Fn' menu, select the 'Defin Menu Function' function in the 'Function Menu'. custom1' (8/9).
Configure the Menu "My Menu" (star)
There is yet another menu that we can customize in our own way, in fact it is the last menu that appears in the main menu. That is, you can create your own menu with the functions and resources you use most. I usually put the functions and resources that don't fit in the buttons and in the 'Fn' menu. Here are the functions that I registered in this configurable 'My menu':
Star Menu 1
Long. exp. RR
Alta ISO RR
Função Disp. Int.
Ctrl c/ Smartphone
Star Menu 2
SteadyShot
Defini. SteadyShot
Tempo Amplia. Foco
Tipo Ficheiro RAW
APS-C/Super 35mm
Star Menu 3
Formatar
Temp. In. Pup. Ene.
Ligação USB
Fornec. Energ. USB
Def. PC Remoto
To configure this "My Menu" you must go to the last Tab and 'Add Item' to the various Menus you want to create, I think you can have a maximum of 5 different menus.
Register Custom Modes (1, 2 & 3)
One of the most overlooked settings is the ability to save different camera modes, settings, configurations and functions, which allows you to quickly switch between different settings, whether for filming or landscape photography. In a matter of seconds they can change settings and change styles. On the A7R III we have 3 modes that we can choose from, and they appear on the dial wheel at the top with the numbers 1, 2 and 3.
When it comes to photography I can quickly change most settings, I know the best apertures and speeds for practically everything I shoot. And so in these custom modes I have everything I need to shoot. In 'Memory 1' I have normal 4K footage, in 'Memory 2' I have HD footage at 120p which allows me to have slow motion and in 'Memory 3' I have normal HD footage.
To register these custom modes you must choose and set everything in one of the normal modes, then go to the Menu 'Shooting Mode/Advance1' (3/14) and memorize it in the mode you prefer. For example, to make video ones (which I will later share a post about) I put them in video mode. I changed all the settings, from the type of video, openings, speeds, image profile, then memorized it in 1, I changed everything to memorize it in 2 and then in 3. When I need it, I just turn it to the mode I need. You can still register three more within each of the modes, although those modes are registered on the memory card! If you format it, you will lose all information. The top three are never erased.
Change the Name Assigned to Images and Videos
Most photographers, myself included, assign names to the files when we import them into the computer or lightroom, allowing some freedom and creativity in naming the files that come out of the camera. The fact that you can change the first three letters of any file created on the camera can be especially useful if you shoot with several cameras or if you are a team of photographers. The default name is 'DSC', but I like to change it to '7R3', or 'A7R', or 'DOP', or 'WLD', or even some acronym for different machines all of the same model to know which machine you took what. With some creativity I can quickly know all these details.
To customize the file names, just go to the 'Configuration5' menu and 'Define File Name'.
Configure Copyright Information
One of the last settings to do is to change the name of the Copyright that will accompany all the photographs you take with the camera. It is very easy to change, just go to the 'Configuration5' menu (5/7) and edit the 'Info. Copyright', here you can 'Set photographer' and also 'Set Copyright', allowing other photographers to use material from the same company. And so know who took what after the event.
When finished, don't forget to turn on 'Escr. info. copyright' and are ready to shoot.
Other Accessories
No machine is complete without a few accessories to make our lives easier and to be more creative. The following accessories are always with me in my backpack with the A7R III.
Fast SD Cards
When buying a Sony A7R III remember to buy fast cards, with UHS-II. Although it only does 10 frames per second (fps) the truth is that with a 42mp sensor, the buffer has to deal with huge files, especially if shooting in RAW. And if it is in the uncompressed format, the final file is around 80mbs, while the compressed one is 40mbs. That is, if you want to improve the operation of the buffer and see it working at optimal speed you will need an ultra fast card.
I recommend the Sony SDXC UHS-II 64GB (LINK) and 128GB (LINK) cards which have 300MB/s read and 299MB/s write speeds.
Remote Controller
There are several solutions for when we are shooting with a tripod, where we want the camera to shoot without having to touch it. They can use the 2 second timer or a remote controller, wired or wireless. I like the wired ones because I also use them when I'm at the shelter photographing birds, and if I have a wireless one...well, let's say I could lose it in the middle of the session. For other occasions a wireless trigger can be very useful, it's a matter of assessing your needs. What I use is a 'Sony RM-SPR1' cable and it always goes with me everywhere until I lose it.
External Powerbank
Most Sony machines allow you to use an external power bank as a battery, or to charge the battery. This is extremely useful if you run out of battery, as a simple power bank that you usually use to charge your cell phone is enough to let you keep photographing for a few more hours. Imagine that you are going to walk for hours, or you have to drive between places, they easily connect the powerbank and charge the battery on the journey. The connection cable I use is a USB Type C which is the same for the cell phone, so I don't need to take an additional cable.
If you have to do timelapse it is also very useful as it allows you to shoot for longer without having to stop to change the battery. And if you use the internal timer, it's even easier. The powerbank I use is a 'Powerbank TP-Link TL-PB20000 20000mAh Black'.
Leave your questions
If you have any questions about the Sony A7R III, send an email to info@onwild.net or on one of my social networks. Thank you and until the next mini-guide/review.
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